EXPERT BLOW DRYING TIPS FROM HOLGER BARTELS
   

Holger Bartels is a master hairdresser and director of the Schwarzkopf Hair Studio in Hamburg. In this interview, he reveals to womensnet his blow-drying tips.

Womensnet: Which functions should a blow dryer have?

Holger Bartels: First of all, the wattage is very important; it should at have at least 1000 Watts. If a blow dryer has less than 1000 Watts, it will take longer to blow your hair dry. It is also a good idea to have at least two heat settings, a cool shot button, and two speed settings. A lower speed setting is useful for drying fine strands of hair; otherwise, they tend to whirl together and become matted. Think of it this way: your car also has multiple gears. The two heat settings are to meet the specific needs of your hair: Fine hair requires a lower heat setting, for example, than thicker hair.

womensnet: What is a cool shot button, and what does it do?

Holger Bartels: You use the cool shot button to remove heat from the blow dryer. This button makes it easier to cool your hair, giving it more bounce and hold. After all, you should wait to put on a freshly ironed pair of pants until it has cooled and the fabric has firmed up again. In scientific terms: So-called “salt bridges” are dissolved in wet hair through water. These bridges become stabilized again by drying the hair with a blow dryer. When you hit the cool shot button as well, you accelerate this stabilization process.

womensnet: Many blow dryers have a radio interference suppression feature. What is this?

Holger Bartels: Your radio might crackle when you use your blow dryer. To avoid this, every blow dryer should possess standard anti-interference equipment. For Germany, it is important that you see a TÜV symbol on your dryer (for tested safety). Then you can be sure that your dryer was produced according to a high safety standard.

womensnet: What attachments are available for blow dryers, and what are their various functions?

Holger Bartels: There are mainly two attachments: nozzles and diffusers. Nozzles are used for more targeted blow drying. In this case, the blow dryer heat is more concentrated and therefore hotter. Too much blow dryer heat is not good for your hair; therefore, hold your dryer at least ca. 5 cm away from your hair. The nozzle attachment is ideal for styling short or straight hair.

womensnet: And what is a diffuser used for?

Holger Bartels: A diffuser is great for adding volume to waves or curls. You can hold hair directly in the diffuser when blow drying hair upside down, because the dryer heat is distributed over a wider area. This attachment is ideal for thick, curly or long hair. You’ll get the best results by blow drying hair upside down while scrunching hair with your fingers.

womensnet: What else is there to consider when choosing a blow dryer?

Holger Bartels: The cord length: It should be long enough so that it easily reaches from the outlet to your head. The material of the dryer must be heat-resistant so that it does not overheat. Nylon, for example, is a material that would also withstand the occasional fall from the bathroom counter. Furthermore, it is important to have a good distribution of weight: Hold the dryer above your head, in order to see if the weight is okay. Also, a blow dryer should not be top-heavy. A customized right or left-handed grip is only useful if you always blow dry with only one hand. Many people switch hands when blow drying, so feature this would naturally be pointless. A smaller blow dryer, such as those made for travel, should possess the same characteristics as a normal blow dryer. It should also be collapsible, if possible. Often, smaller blow dryers do not have different heat settings and are not made from heat-resistant material. It should also be kept in mind that these sometimes do not work in the razor outlets of hotel rooms. Therefore, always remember to bring an adapter.

womensnet: How much does a good blow dryer usually cost?

Holger Bartels: It’s difficult to say. Depending upon the features, between 14 and 80 Euros. I can recommend the Babyliss Pro Classic for ca. 35 Euros.

womensnet: Mr. Bartels, could you give us a few general tips about blow drying?

Mr. Bartels: One should apply styling mousse to hair before blow drying. This forms a protective coating over the hair against excessive dryer heat and provides a certain stability for the hairstyle. Styling mousse also functions as a water-repellent.Avoid lifeless hair by blow drying hair always from the roots to the ends; otherwise, the cuticle layer will stand up. Blow drying on too high a heat setting stimulates circulation in the scalp, thereby increasing the production of sebum, which causes hair to become oily more quickly at the roots. Therefore, it is better to blow dry on a lower heat setting over a longer period of time, which also reduces the risk of breakage.