STYLE IS A MATTER OF AWARENESS

Beatrix Isabel Lied, color, type and style consultant and professor of Color and Image at the University of Hamburg, considers the following quote from the physicist Feldenkrais: “Only when I first know what I am doing, can I then do what I want!” as the fundamental message of a personal and modern image consultation.

The main goal of your color, type and style consulting is to work with your clients to develop a awareness of their own type. How do you do this?

All people put themselves together in front of the mirror in the morning. They dress and decorate their bodies. This act of “creation,” as I call it, is a result of the effect that one is trying to achieve. The effect is totally subjective and has to do with our social surroundings and upbringing. Color and form are the means which are at our disposal to obtain the desired effect. Some people succeed intuitively in “creating” themselves in a positive way. This is viewed by others as being style conscious.

A simple example makes clear just how subjective assessments can be: If you asked someone to find fabric the same color as your dress or blouse, this would be almost impossible—at least when done from memory. If you consider the color of your dress to be azure blue, another might think it is light or a medium blue. Here I would like to focus upon the offer from “Beauty is Life” and make my clients aware that it is possible, with the help of orientation points, to consciously use color and other decorative elements to achieve specific effects.

The achieved effect shapes our image at the same time. Image has become nearly inevitably cliché—one pigeonholes someone else because he or she takes in and interprets that which is projected. I explain to my clients how such an image comes into being. What does one have to see, for example, in order to label someone as a “punker?” Would a safety pin through the nose and pink hair suffice?

How do you go about defining a type? What are your clues?

All of us are subject to our natural coloring. This is defined by skin, hair and eye color. We call this pigmentation. What we do first is an assessment of the “natural characteristics” of the client. Within the framework of this assessment, we assign colors particular characteristics. There are two big groups of characteristics into which every color can be divided: First, each color possesses a tone value. This means it possesses a particular light or dark value.

Second, every color has a warm or cold effect. These two characteristics can naturally be considered fluid or without gradations, but they do provide certain clues as to the definition of a type. These characteristics can also be applied to a person’s pigmentation; if someone has light blond hair and a dark complexion, they would be—despite their steel gray eyes—more of a warm type.

How exactly is it possible to define a type?

Stars whom we all recognize recognize provide good examples to illustrate these definitions. Boris Becker is, for example, more of an Irish-Celtic type. His hair is always somewhat orange-tinged—therefore warm—and his pigmentation rather light. By comparison, Fergie is a similar type—only somewhat darker. Nevertheless, she is not even close to being as dark as an Indian type with bronze-colored skin and brown eyes. But in their characteristics they all have something in common: They are all warm types. They differ only in their degree of lightness.

Another example: The Swedish type—also light in pigmentation, with white blond hair, light eyes and eyebrows. They are light like Boris Becker, but rather a colder type. Here in Hamburg, “the dirty blond, northern German” type with ash blond hair is very prevalent. When they have grey or blue eyes and a pale complexion, they are a cool type. There are, of course, people who combine cold and warm types. If they have ash blond hair, they might also certainly have olive-colored eyes—therefore a warm type. Such mixed types are not accounted for in the classic four seasons typology because it is too rigid. I have defined these mixed types through a framework of nine types—from light to dark and from warm to cold. In this classification, every person can find his or her type.

What are people expecting when they come in for a consultation?

When we arrange things—e.g., in decorating our room or trimming the tree at Christmas—we are dealing with three optical phenomena. The first one is so called enhancement. When, for example, someone decorates his or her apartment exclusively with antiques, it produces a very clear picture. One can, however, accentuate the effect of antiques by introducing a contrast with modern furniture pieces.

Finally, there is the phenomenon called compensation, or balance. Through compensation, one balances out the effect of an object or a color by combining it with neutral elements. These optical phenomena are very important in type consulting when someone is trying to create a deliberate effect. The surest, most classical way to use one’s color type to its best advantage is to use enhancement. One wears colors that complement his or her type and thereby emphasizes himself or herself.

Does social and professional environment play a role in color and type consulting?

Next to individual type, this is one of the most important characteristics which informs my consultation. Imagine a woman who works in a managing capacity at a large company. She may be a rather delicate type, with soft facial characteristics and light blond hair. Her color consultant would normally advise her towards light pastels to “enhance” her type. She would look great and exude charm, but unfortunately that would be totally unsuitable for her job, in which she must project competence and strength. For this reason, I always take into account factors such as environment, age and personal taste.

Can I wear my favorite color even if it does not suit my type?

Those who know how to use color can also confidently use colors that do not match their type. They must only follow the guidelines of enhancing. This balance should take place in the form of a play of color with other tones. If I am, for example, a cool, light type and love bright colors, I can offset them with a neutral grey. Grey is a typical complementary color: It counteracts the strength of other colors, thereby softening their effect.

How can I recognize while still in the shop whether an item of clothing will suit me?

To this end, I offer my clients color cards matched to their color type, so that they can compare on the spot whether the color of a top or pants is flattering. With these cards, which are also made for hair color, one can find a suitable coloring as well. We offer these cards to anyone who knows his or her color type and does not want to have a consultation.

Tip: Are you interested in learning more about color, type and style consultations? Then check out the Beauty is Life website:  

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