SKIN AND HAIR

Dr. Waldmann-Laue is Director of Development for New Skin Products at Henkel and is also responsible for the development of the brand Diadermine. She is also the mother of two kids, though her husband says that her job is also her passion.

What ingredients make up a skin cream?

The classical ingredients as well as the base of every skin cream are water and oil. Because both elements do not mix, we use so-called emulsifiers which make mixing possible. The cosmetic raw materials are then added to the base ingredients. These active ingredients are matched specially to the function of the cream (e.g., day or night cream). Vitamins are often incorporated, such as vitamin E, which protects skin by neutralizing damaging environmental influences and helping it retain moisture.

How and why do wrinkles develop on the skin?

Every person is subject to the natural aging process. Wrinkles are a visible form of this process. The aging of the skin, however, takes place in two ways. The first is genetically determined aging—the aging of cells—which we cannot influence. Secondly, there is environmentally determined aging, such as through UV radiation in sunlight or diverse environmental influences. One can control this kind of aging. Roughly 80 percent of wrinkling develops due to environmentally determined aging. Only 20 percent can be attributed to genetic aging. One can see, then, that several possibilities exist to prevent wrinkling—provided that one starts early with the proper skin care.

Can one counteract the formation of wrinkles?

A wrinkle forms mainly due to a change in collagen—one of the main components of the skin. Collagen in young skin is elastic and supple. It loses its elasticity with age and becomes brittle—and a wrinkle is formed. Because this process is environmentally determined, one can counteract it with cosmetics. When a wrinkle has already formed, no cream in the world will be able to completely erase it. However, wrinkling can be significantly reduced. An important measure against wrinkles is a prophylaxis with ample moisture and protection. Already during puberty, people should begin to protect themselves against their environment.

How do I determine my skin type?

It is relatively easy to determine one’s skin type, because there are really only three basic types. There is the oily type—skin is shiny and feels somewhat oily on the nose and forehead. This skin type is found most frequently in younger people. Dry skin is recognizable when it feels rough and tightens from heat or cold. This skin type is more sensitive to environment and therefore needs more protection and care. The third type is a mix combination of the first two, which is why it is also called a combination type. In the so called T-zone, which is the zone along the forehead, nose and chin, skin is oily but dry along the cheeks. Generally, skin becomes increasingly dry with age and therefore needs more intensive care.

Why are there different creams for day and night and for different areas of the skin?

Skin, as well as the body, is subject to a biological rhythm. While during the day it is busy protecting itself, during the night it concentrates on regeneration. A day moisturizer can strengthen skin’s natural protective mechanisms, such as through UV filters. A night cream supports the regeneration of skin with rich nutrients such as vitamins and minerals. The division of products into eye and facial creams targets the different properties of each area. Skin around the eyes is identical to the rest of the skin but is somewhat thinner. Thus, this area is more sensitive than the rest of the face. Eye creams for the most part contain no perfumes, or include them only in small amounts.

Are there any differences between men's and women's skin?

The structure of skin is basically identical. Men’s skin is in some cases somewhat thicker and therefore more robust. Thus, men can actually use the same skin creams as women, provided that they like the fragrance notes. The only difference in skin care is with the beard area of a man. Here the skin is placed under more stress through shaving and needs more time to regenerate. Specially made products help it to recover.

How do you test skin creams?

In our development department we work in three steps. When we test the effectiveness of a new ingredient, we use identical skin cell cultures for the first step—that is, cell cultures which are also present in the layers of skin. For the second step, we test on “artificial skin.” This skin is cultivated from human skin cells and is almost identical in its composition. We can even simulate environmental aging, in which we expose this skin to UV light. Like human skin, it is made up of three layers: subcutaneous tissue, the epidermis and the dermis. In the field of medicine, these artificial skin layers are already being implanted for some time now in severe burn patients. We use this skin to test the compatibility of creams.

When these two steps are successfully concluded and a positive effect is clearly proven, we can follow up with human testing. Next to artificial skin, there exists a whole battery of other tests to check compatibility. Testing on nature is useful, for example—without any animal testing—on a hen’s egg. A thin membrane exists between the shell and the egg white, whose components are similar to human skin.

What happens when an anti-aging cream is applied to young skin?

It is neither bad nor particularly effective. Creams for mature skin contain ingredients which are ideal for older skin. Because young skin has other needs, these ingredients achieve little. Skin simply dispenses of that which it does not need.

Thank you very much for talking with us, Dr. Waldmann-Laue.