HOW DOES A FRAGRANCE TREND DEVELOP?

Womensnet.com talks with Alexandra Klinge, Product Manager of Fragrances and “fragrance trend researcher” at the Henkel Fragrance Center.

Ms. Klinge, how does a fragrance trend develop?

The various influences that inspire us come from diverse areas of every day life: from lifestyle to societal developments and even to daily habits.

The most important sources of inspiration for us are fine fragrances, or prestige perfumes.

Another example would be products that we use every day. Even here there are new trends to be discovered: these could be oriental spices, new dairy products (such as aloe vera-enriched yogurt), or even new beverages (such as lemon coke) or exotic fruits.

Creative impulses strike us in the strangest ways. Aromachology has had a strong influence; scents and ingredients have been adapted not only for cosmetics but also for household products. Well known fragrances and products from earlier times have also become very popular again through retro trends (such as Pril flowers and the Marsiglia trend in southern Europe).

Scents are learned, partly intuitively, partly consciously and connected with many associations. For example, lavender has become associated in France with Provence, summer and long walks. Germans on the other hand view lavender more as a classic and somewhat outdated scent.

Are there fragrances trends? If so, in which direction is the current trend heading?

Fragrance trends are difficult to pin down because they follow a constant, cyclical pattern. One example is the differing fragrance trends in summer and winter: in summer somewhat lighter, fresher and fruitier scents are favored, and in winter, somewhat warmer, sweeter, oriental scents are preferred. A country’s geographical location also influences its trends.

Decisive in the choice of a fragrance is the feeling that one associates with it: uniqueness is just as sought after as are scents that evoke fond memories.

Generally it can be said that on the one hand fragrances are becoming fresher and more intimate—those that smell like “freshly washed, silky-smooth skin.” On the other hand, we are finding increasingly seductive, sweet oriental scents that awaken the senses and evoke a feeling of comfort.

How long does it take to create a fragrance?

Creativity knows no specific timeframe. Just as with a musical composition, a fragrance formula can be created in a day; though it sometimes takes weeks, months or even years until a fragrance is perfected.

How do you create fragrances for the cosmetics branch—from shower gel to daily moisturizing cream?

Basically the procedure is the same as with the classic alcohol-based perfumes. Popular perfumes are certainly used as a source of inspiration. This process is called “trickle down:” fragrance notes and perfumes that are successful with consumers, such as the fragrance note “green tea,” will be adopted. That is why the “green tea” note is found not only in CK One—the perfume from Calvin Klein, or in Bulgari Extreme from Bulgari—but also in cosmetics with moisturizers and other skincare products as well.

How can one protect a scent from being copied?

Recipes and compositions can be protected as creative property. To do this, however, the perfume’s formula with all of its specifics must be made public. Naturally, no company does this, because the scent could be easily imitated with only a few alterations. This imitated perfume could then be sold under another name.

Do you have any particular tips about buying perfume?

It is important to “get to know” the scent on unperfumed skin. In the shop, one should therefore spray the fragrance on the inner side of the arm and leave it on for an entire day. One should first decide after experiencing the scent as it fully unfolds.

THE WOMENSNET.COM FRAGRANCE CONSULTATION

The online fragrance consultation from womensnet guides you through the mysterious world of fragrances and provides you with tips and information about fragrance categories and their meaning.

Find out your fragrance type and what this could reveal about you!