Abrasion

Wearing away teeth enamel through friction (sanding effect).

Abrasives

These water-soluble mineral substances are regular components of toothpaste. Due to their granular structure, they mechanically support the cleansing effects of the cream, i.e., they “rub away” tough, sticky plaque without attacking the dental enamel.

Acid

Bacteria present in plaque produces corrosive acids when sugar and carbohydrates from food are broken down, which wash away minerals in the dental enamel and thus weaken it. Germs then attack and corrode the enamel, forming a cavity.

Activator

Material that precipitates a chemical reaction or influences its progression. A blonding activator, for example, intensifies the effect of bleaching.

Active Fluoride Complex

The active fluoride complex in today’s toothpastes functions as a protective shield for teeth against caries, periodontosis, plaque, and the formation of tartar.

Aerosol

An aerosol is a gas with tiny, suspended particles. It is used as a propellant in pressurized dispensers.

AHA

Abbreviation for “alpha hydroxy acid,” which refers to fruit acids (citric and malic acid) as well as lactic acid. In skin care, they are used to dissolve dead cells and support regeneration of the skin. In hair care, fruit acids are used for their moisture-regulating ability in the care of normal or dry hair. They can also stimulate scalp circulation and hair growth.

Algae/ Algae Extract

Extracts from algae or seaweed that are widely used in cosmetics, particularly in face and body care for cell renewal. Algae extract firms the skin and softens calluses. In hair care products (e.g. shampoos, conditioners, treatments), it creates volume, body, and shine.

Alkali-Free

Alkali (basic) cleansing substances such as soaps that alter the acid mantle of the skin (see also pH value). Normal skin replenishes alkali within about 20 minutes; for sensitive skin, however, washing with alkali-free products is recommended.
Products with this designation do not contain alkali (basic) substances—in contrast to sodium or potassium soaps. Hair also was once washed with the latter. Alkali soaps have a high pH value (>7 = alkali), which can irritate sensitive skin. Akali-free soaps on the other hand are—like the skin—slightly acidic.

Alkaline

The acidity of a watery solution with a basic pH value (7-14); the opposite of acidic.

Allantoin

Natural material found in the plant and animal world (maple, horse chestnut bark, wheat germ) which is very gentle to skin. Due to its anti- inflammatory, healing, and cell regenerating properties, it is included in skin creams, sun and lip care products, as well as in anti-dandruff products.

Almond Extract

Strengthens the acid mantle. Dry, sensitive skin immediately feels supple and is protected against harmful external influences.

Almond Bran

Gained from shelled almonds, almond bran is particularly mild to skin due to its high concentration of natural raw materials. When combined with water, it cleanses and massages skin, as well as refines the complexion.

Almond Milk

Due to its oil content, almond milk moisturizes and replenishes skin. The watery components (amino acids, sugar) give skin targeted moisture.

Almond Oil

Almond oil is one of the classic cosmetic oils and has been used since antiquity. This oil, gained from cold pressing almonds, is high in unsaturated fatty acids (oleic and linoleic acids). It supports the natural replenishing of skin, provides intensive moisture, smoothes and relieves tense skin, and leaves it feeling soft.

Almond Protein

Sweet almond protein forms a nourishing, natural protective film on skin and provides additional moisture. Reduces fine lines.

Aloe Vera

Due to its moisturizing, emollient, and skin firming properties, the gel of this liliaceous plant is used particularly in products for dry and sensitive skin. Aloe vera soothes and cools skin as well as eases pain, so it is often used for redness, irritation, or sunburn—most of all in sun care products.

Alpha-Naphthol

Also: 1-naphthol. It is a coupler that can be used as an additive in oxidative hair dyeing. Binds with the pre-color ingredient of the developer to influence the color result.

Aluminium Chlorohydrate

Antiperspirant ingredient that constricts the pores of the sweat glands in deodorants and thus reduces perspiration.

Amino Acids

The protein building blocks that structure and regulate the moisture in the skin and reduce fine lines. Amino acid complexes (e.g. glycine) have moisture-retaining properties that can reduce wrinkles.

Ammonia

Contained in oxidative hair color, ammonia opens the hair structure and prepares the hair to receive ingredients and color molecules, thus supporting the process of developing color.

Antibacterial

Targeted or effective against bacteria.

Anti-dandruff Agents

Chemical (e.g., octopirox, climbazol) and natural (e.g., gingerroot, birch) ingredients that are effective against the formation of dandruff and stem the growth of micro-organisms. With regular use dandruff is effectively prevented.

Antimicrobial

Effective against microbes (bacteria, viruses, fungi, protozoa).

Antiseptic

Kills germs, prevents the infection of wounds.

Apple

Contains fruit acids (alpha-hydroxy acids) that stimulate cell metabolism and gently exfoliate the outer layer of the skin. In hair care, the highly fragrant apple extract is used in the care of normal hair.

Applicators

Implements (e.g., brush, applicator tube) to apply hair color precisely—particularly recommended for root treatments and highlights.

Approximal Caries

This is the designation for the specific form of caries in the areas between the teeth, which can occur either from extreme crowding or insufficient cleaning. A thorough cleaning with -> dental floss is recommended for prevention.

Apricot/ Apricot Oil

Apricot seed oil, gained from pressing or extraction, smoothes the skin and leaves dry, sensitive skin feeling softer. In hair care, apricot oil (containing vitamin B5) is used to care for dry, brittle hair. It also smoothes the hair structure and creates silky shine.

Aqua Capsules

These innovative moisture capsules are tiny micro capsules that penetrate deep into the skin where they store the skin’s own moisture. They absorb the skin’s moisture and release it gradually throughout the day, so that the moisture content stays at its highest level longer.

Arnica

Due to its stimulatory, healing, anti-inflammatory, and germicidal properties, arnica is often used in hand and foot creams as well as in anti-dandruff products.

Aromatic Oils

Aromatic oils are natural plant oils (e.g., from orange blossoms), which take effect through smell, skin contact or friction. Due to their ability to stimulate the senses, they are often used in cosmetics to heighten our sense of well-being.

Astringent

Drawing together—astringents constrict the skin surface. The active ingredients (e.g., witch hazel, sage, mint) are used in facial toners and aftershaves as well as in products for oily, impure, and large-pored skin.

Avocado/ Avocado Oil

Because it is rich in vitamins E and A, as well as unsaturated fatty acids, avocado replenishes skin, prevents moisture loss, and acts as an emollient. It is used in products for dry or flaky skin, as well in hair care for hair that is dry or prone to split ends.

Bacteria

Bacteria are micro organisms which are vital but can also cause illness. Most types, such as in the mouth, are harmless or even useful and we don’t notice them. Some, however, form dangerous acids when combined with sugar and carbohydrates from our diet, threatening caries and periodontosis. Skin and hair care products may contain antibacterial ingredients (e.g., anti-dandruff products; products for young, problem skin).

Baking Soda

See Sodium Bicarbonate.

Beer/ Yeast

Hops contained in beer have relaxing, skin-firming, and antiseptic effects. They are employed in skin care to moisturize rough skin and also for dermatitis. Yeast—containing vitamins B1, B2 and B6—is also used for treating dysfunctions in sebum secretion of oily skin or hair.

Beeswax

Main component of creams and lipsticks with skin-friendly and nourishing properties. It is also used in hair color and hair care to smooth structure.

Betain

A mild cleansing substance that is in bubble baths, skin cleansing products, and shampoos for normal skin and hair.

Bicarbonate

See Sodium Bicarbonate.

Biotin

Water-soluble vitamin H is essential for the structure of skin, hair, and nails and demonstrably reduces fine lines and damage to the skin. Rich sources of biotin are found in liver, egg, yeast, and nuts. Deficiencies lead to dry skin, skin inflammation (dermatitis), hair loss, and brittle nails. Biotin is also used in hair products.

Birch

Birch extracts from leaves (oil) and bark (birch tar) are used in skin care due to their healing, antiseptic, and anti-inflammatory properties. Birch leaf extract also promotes circulation and is therefore contained in hair care products.

Bisabolol

Bisabolol is an ingredient present in chamomile oil. It is gentle to the skin and has anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant properties. It is ideal for the care of sensitive and problem skin.

Blackheads

This refers to blockages of sebum in the sebaceous glands. Whiteheads are closed to the skin surface and appear as light yellow nodules underneath the skin surface. Blackheads are open to the skin surface and dark in color due to dirt, melanin, or oxidized sebum that is visible in the openings of pores. Removing these by squeezing can lead to inflammation, scarring, and pigment spots. Specific cosmetic care products are available as a remedy. When in doubt, consult a professional (i.e., dermatologist or cosmetician).

Body Lotion

Fluid emulsions for skin care of the body. Depending upon the composition, emulsions are either rich and nourishing (W/O formula) or light and moisturizing (O/W formula). Many products contain valuable additives, e.g., to bind moisture to skin, firm skin, or to protect it against premature aging.

Calcium

This is an important component of human teeth and bones. To strengthen these, regular intake of calcium is necessary, e.g., through milk, cheese, yogurt, or bananas. To harden weakened enamel, dental prophylaxes contain fluoride, which binds with the calcium on the surface of the teeth. Furthermore, minerals such as calcium, sodium, magnesium, copper, and zinc are vital to the human organism. Calcium is important for blood coagulation, influences the permeability of cell membranes, and stimulates cell regeneration.

Calendula

The extract and essential oil of the common marigold are included in many cosmetic products due to their healing, disinfecting, anti-inflammatory, and astringent properties. Calendula is effective in caring for impure, oily skin as well in soothing reddened, inflamed skin. Aromatic calendula oil (extracted from the blossom) forms the basis for skin oils and is ideal for dry, sensitive skin and eczema. It is often found in replenishing hand creams and sunscreen. It is also used in anti-dandruff hair products due to its antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, and soothing effects.

Camphor

This essential oil of the camphor tree is gained through distillation, and due to its antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties is used for the care and treatment of oily skin, blackheads, inflammation, and acne. It is also used in hair tonics due to its stimulating and circulation-promoting qualities.

Caries

Caries (or tooth decay) is the most common oral problem. Bacteria present in plaque converts sugars and other carbohydrates from food into acids, which then eat away at the minerals in the dental enamel. The dental enamel is thus weakened, and bacteria can now easily penetrate the tooth, forming a cavity. If left untreated, this can advance until the dentine is also affected, resulting in causing a toothache. At this point a dentist must be consulted.

Chamomile

Both the blossom extract and essential oil gained through distillation are used in cosmetics due to their soothing and anti-inflammatory properties as well as for good health and well being. They are included in creams particularly for the cleansing and care of impure or sensitive skin, in hand creams and sunscreen lotion, as an additive in shampoos for mild hair care, and for the disinfection/ treatment of inflammation or insect bites. It is also used as a natural lightener for blonde hair.

Chlorhexidine

Antiseptic that works prevents gingivitis.

Cinchona

Cinchona extract is used in hair care and in particular in hair tonics due to its astringent property. Moreover, in a low dosage the alkaloid quinine has calming and antiseptic effects.

Clay

Clay quickly absorbs sebum secretions and has a lasting, matte effect.

Cleansing Lotion/Gel/Foam/Milk/Tissues/Cream

Product types in the area of face care, which according to skin type and skin condition gently remove traces of makeup, dirt, and other impurities from the skin surface. Oil particles must be washed away with solutions that can absorb lipophilic (fat-soluble) substances. Various products are suitable according to skin type—depending upon whether it is desired to moisturize and replenish dryer skin.

Cocoa Butter

This solid, ivory colored natural fat is extracted through pressing of the shelled and roasted cocoa bean. Cocoa butter is used as a thickener and to condition skin in lipsticks, creams, and ointments. It protects skin against dryness, makes lips silky smooth, and serves as an effective filter against UV radiation in sunscreen lotion.

Collagen

This fibrous protein is a natural component of the elastic connective tissue in the dermis and is able to bind moisture well. This capacity, however, decreases with aging. The amount of collagen produced declines and skin’s structure is altered; water can no longer be stored as effectively; skin loses its firmness and wrinkles develop. As an additive in cosmetics, collagen smoothes the skin through hydration; skin looks smoother and fresher.

Collagen Activator

Additive in high-quality skin care products. Through a specially formulated collagen activator, skin cells are stimulated to produce the skin’s own collagen. Skin becomes visibly smoother and firmer.

Coloration

Generally: Alteration of hair color. In hair color products, either oxidative or direct-acting dyestuffs are used, depending upon the level of permanence. There are non-permanent tints, demi-permanent colorations lasting up to 24 washes, and permanent colorations.

Colored Hair

To maintain color freshness, one should use specialized hair care products for colored hair. Conditioners are recommended to smooth the hair structure and create shine. Deep-penetrating effects can be achieved with hair repair and treatment products for colored hair, which contain specialized color care components.

Color Refresher

Color reflex products with color pigments bring a maximum amount of color to natural or colored hair. They provide intense color and reflect light for a deep, luminous shine.

Components

Ingredients that complement each other and produce a specific effect when combined, e.g., in oxidative hair color, in which the component hydrogen peroxide is brought together with the other ingredients shortly before application to create a chemical reaction.

Concealing products

Applications for blemishes or other skin impurities to hide them and cause them to disappear; their consistency and flesh color evens out the skin tone. Some products contain additional anti-bacterial ingredients, which heal inflamed blemishes and hinder new ones from forming.

Conditioner

Also called rinse; belongs to basic hair care. It is left for a brief period on hair after shampooing and provides the cuticle layer with proteins and ingredients that immediately smooth hair and thus make it supple and easier to comb. For colored hair, there are specially formulated conditioners and repair balsams with micro-fine color pigments that intensify the hair color and create shine.

Conditioning Balsam

Light conditioning products, including specialized care products for the eyes, skin, lips, and hair.

Connective Tissue

In this tissue of the dermis—consisting of collagen and elastic tissue fibers—are embedded the sebaceous and sweat glands, hair follicles, and muscle tissue, as well as blood and lymphatic vessels.

Coupler

Couplers are substances in oxidative hair dyeing that bind with developer molecules.

Cream

Creams are emulsions consisting of oily and watery components. They contain various oils and fats as well as emulsifiers, which ensure a consistent mixture of the basic ingredients, in addition to additives and other ingredients in varying amounts and compositions (e.g., vitamins, UV filters, fragrances, etc.).

Cream Body Wash

Particularly nourishing, gentle shower products for cleansing the body.

Cream Bubble Bath

These are added to bath water where they develop loose, yet lasting foam. Most of all, they serve to pamper—the cleansing effect is secondary.

Cream Hair Color

Designation for oxidative, permanent hair color, which due to its formula reliably covers grey hair. Also ideal for touch-up treatments.

Cuticle

The hair shaft, which protrudes from the scalp, is enclosed by the cuticle, whose flat cells overlap each other like scales. When hair is healthy, these tightly overlap one another; but when hair is dry, brittle, or damaged, the cuticle is rough and hair looks dull. Recommended are care products with protein-enriched, replenishing, and moisturizing ingredients.

Day Cream

This is usually an oil-in-water emulsion, which absorbs quickly and does not leave behind an oily residue. Day creams replenish, invigorate, and moisturize skin. They offer protection from outer influences like air pollution, wind, and UV radiation and serve as a foundation for powder or makeup. High-quality creams often include ingredients (vitamin combinations, minerals, trace elements, and aroma oils) for specialized care.

Dandruff

If the natural cell regeneration process of the scalp becomes imbalanced, dry (due to scalp irritation) or oily (due to increased sebum production) scales may form. Anti-dandruff products normalize the secretion of sebum and the shedding of dead skin cells and at the same time inhibit the growth of microorganisms. For severe or persistent dandruff, it is recommended that you consult a dermatologist.

Demi-permanent Tints

Demi-permanent tints are colorants with a level 2 degree of permanence. They last up to 24 hair washes and reliably cover the first grey hairs.

Dental Floss

Dental floss is used in oral hygiene as a supplement to daily cleaning. It removes traces of food and plaque between the teeth and along the gums. The right technique: Take a thread about 40 cm long and wrap it around both middle fingers, leaving about 8 to 10 cm. Then carefully move floss back and forth (or up and down) with the thumbs and pointer fingers. It is important to do this gently in order to avoid damaging the gums. Use a new section of floss for each space between teeth.

Dentine

Dentine is the bone-like, main substance of the tooth. It encircles the soft dental pulp and is surrounded by the extremely hard dental enamel.

Denture

A unit of teeth and jaw-bones. In adults (from 17 years old), a denture consists normally of 32 teeth (four incisors, two canines, four premolars and six molars). This, however, includes the four wisdom teeth, which do not fully develop in every person. Milk (deciduous) teeth in children consist of twenty teeth, because the jaw is still small and needs to grow.

Dermis

The dermis (also: cutis) is the second of three skin layers (below the epidermis). It is comprised of the upper papillary layer, which supplies nutrients to the epidermis and contains the nerves, and the lower reticular layer with nerves, blood vessels, sweat glands, and hair follicles.

Developer

Oxidative color pigments, or so-called developers and couplers, form the basis of a new hair color. They are actually preliminary pigments, which as very tiny, colorless molecules only develop their actual color once in the interior of the hair with the aid of an oxidizing agent, such as hydrogen peroxide.

Direct (also Direct-Acting) Dyes

These dyestuffs attach themselves mainly to the outside of the hair and wash out over time (6-8 washes). Hair cannot be lightened by this method. They are distinguishable in that the product is immediately ready for use and does not first need to be mixed, e.g., Poly Live Soft Toner.

Discoloration

Tooth discoloration is not always a sign of illness or damage; it can also arise from the consumption of particular foods or cigarettes. Tea, coffee, and tobacco can for example cause teeth to turn yellow, which does not however attack the teeth. Unhealthy or dead teeth on the other hand are dark to black in color.

Dispenser

This packaging form of toothpaste offers a few advantages over conventional tubes. The dosage mechanism provides exactly the right amount of toothpaste at the push of a button and its contents are almost entirely emptied (up to 98%). The dispenser is therefore easier to use and more efficient than a tube.

Dry, Stressed Hair

The typical attributes of dry hair: it looks dull, lacks shine, suppleness, and elasticity. External influences like mechanical stress can be the cause. Specialized hair care products for this hair type can regenerate the cuticle and strengthen the structure of the hair from within.

Dyestuff

Today’s hair color contains either permanent, oxidative dyestuffs or temporary, direct-acting dyestuffs.

Egg

Egg yolk preserves moisture, as well as firms and replenishes the skin. It is thus used in hair and skin care products for nourishing dry skin; the protein smoothes the hair cuticle and creates shine and suppleness.

Elastin

Together with collagen, this protein is responsible for the elasticity of the skin. Advancing age—as well as environmental influences or excessive sunbathing—leads to the loss of collagen and thus the skin’s elasticity. This results in fine lines, and then wrinkles; skin loses its freshness and tautness. Special preparations can help to improve elasticity.

Emulsifiers

Emulsifiers are an important component of creams because they bind not only with fat but also with water. Their composition allows for the distribution of tiny oil components and water, which otherwise do not mix. Both in water-in-oil (W/O) as well as oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions (see also: Emulsion).

Emulsions

Emulsions are mixes of oil (or oil-soluble) and water (or water-soluble) components. They constitute the most important product type for skin care, in the form of body lotions, creams, and cleansing milk to gently remove dirt and makeup from the skin. According to composition, these fluids supply skin with either replenishing ingredients or moisture. They are composed mainly of oil and water. There are two basic types of emulsions: oil-in-water formulas, which are very moisturizing (primarily as a daily moisturizer or for the care of impure, oily skin) and water-in-oil formulas, with more replenishing properties (such as a night cream, sunscreen lotion, or for the care of dry skin). Emulsifiers must be included to enable a permanent binding of the oil and water ingredients and to support the overall effectiveness of the product.

Enzyme

Enzymes are albuminous substances (water-soluble blood proteins) that are produced by cells. Almost all processes of the human organism are caused by enzymes. They facilitate, accelerate, and control all life-supporting processes without altering their own structure. The activation or deactivation of various enzymes because of environmental influences can lead to premature aging and a loss of elasticity in the skin.

Epidermis

The epidermis is the topmost layer of skin. It consists of multiple layers of tightly packed cells (keratinocytes). New cells grow in the lower layers and press old cells upward (instead: migrate upward to the surface), where they are eventually shed. This process (called keratinization) takes place within about 30 days. See also: Skin/Skin Structure.

Evening Primrose Oil

Extracted from the seeds of the evening primrose plant, this valuable oil was once known as the “King’s cure all” due to its medicinal properties. Rich in essential fatty acids (98%), evening primrose oil contains a particularly high concentration of two vital polyunsaturated fatty acids which stabilize the fat and moisture content of skin. The ability of skin to bind moisture long term is increased, thus protecting it from drying out.

Facial Care

Complete facial skin care includes four steps: 1. Cleansing, 2. Clarifying/ Refreshing, 3. Nourishing/ Protecting, and Regenerating. These measures are necessary to mitigate the effects of harmful environmental influences (UV rays, dry, heated air, air conditioning, exhaust fumes, etc.) as well as to prevent premature aging (fine lines and wrinkles). It is important to use products that are created specially for your particular skin type.

Facial Toner

Product from the “Clarifying/ Refreshing” category of facial care. Facial toner removes traces of dirt and makeup. There are toners with or without alcohol—depending upon skin type. Toners may also contain ingredients with astringent, antibacterial, soothing, or circulation-promoting properties.

Fatty Acid

Essential fatty acids are polyunsaturated fatty acids (linoleic acid, omega-3 fatty acids) that the body cannot produce itself and therefore must be supplied through diet, from plant fats and oils as well as fish oils. Deficiency symptoms are dry skin and dull, brittle hair and nails. In cosmetic products, they protect and nourish particularly dry and sensitive skin.

Fine Hair

Fine hair is characterized as having only a small diameter. It is usually hereditary and is frequently confused with having too little hair. Blondes most commonly have to deal with fine hair, because blonde hair is the thinnest. The biggest problem with fine hair: the hairstyle lacks volume. The essentials for fine hair are the right haircut as well as the proper hair care regime with light products.

Flavonoids

Plant substances with various properties (anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, circulation-promoting, sebum-regulating, etc.), which are found, for example, in birch leaves, viola, chamomile blossoms, and ginkgo extract.

Fluoride

The active ingredient in toothpaste or mouthwash that fights cavities (caries). Fluoride penetrates into the dental enamel, hardens and thus protects it from the effects of harmful acids. Fluoride also influences the metabolism of bacteria living in the mouth so that fewer of these acids are created from the outset.

Follicle

Follicles are tiny, sac-like depressions in the dermis, in which the hair roots are embedded. Cell division takes place here; the hair shaft beyond the skin is keratinized.

Free Radicals

Free radicals are aggressive molecules that arise in skin from sunlight and harmful environmental influences and are the main cause of fine lines. Vitamin E and other antioxidants offer protection against them.

Fruit Acids

See AHA.

Gel

Often a clear skin care product of fluid or somewhat fluid consistency. Its structure, in which water is bound in a gelatin-like substance, makes it a very good moisture provider. In hair care, gel is used for styling with varying degrees of hold.

Gingivitis

Still treatable inflammation of the gums—can be treated as a preliminary stage of periodontitis.

Glycine

One of 200 amino acids present in nature—the building blocks of all plant and animal proteins. Glycine is used in cosmetics as a moisturizer; it raises the moisture content of the skin and is particularly gentle as it is a substance already present in the body.

Green Tea

Green tea contains vitamins A, B, C, E, and important bioactive substances that protect against free radicals and protect the skin against harmful environmental influences and thus premature aging. Green tea extracts are also used in hair care (shampoos, conditioners, treatments) to increase the vitality of scalp cells and prevent thinning, weak hair.

Grey Hair

When color pigments (melanin) are no longer produced in the hair root, i.e., when the melanocytes (melanin-producing cells) no longer work properly, the first “grey” hairs appear grow. “Grey” is actually an incorrect designation, because it implies only that it is pigmented hair. In actuality the hair is growing colorless without pigment from the hair root. Hair color or natural color cream products which return hair to its original shade are reliable solutions.

Hair Ends

The farther the hair is from the scalp (and thus older), the more porous is its structure. External influences and mechanical stresses can weaken the hair, making it thinner and more brittle. This results in split ends and color alterations: the thinner and more porous is the outer cuticle layer, the easier the natural pigments “fall out” of the fibrils in the cortex, and the color becomes lighter. Specialized hair care products seal the keratin mantle of the hair, stabilize the cuticle, and restructure the hair.

Hair Follicle

See Follicle.

Hair Loss/ Hair Loss Treatment

Humans lose up to 100 hairs a day. Severe hair loss can be genetic, but may also occur due to stress, illness, poor diet, or hormonal imbalances. One should always consult a doctor to determine the exact cause. In some cases, specialized products can stimulate circulation, revitalize and promote cell regeneration in the scalp. Even balding in men can be forestalled with specialized products and regular use.

Hair Root

At the lower end of the dermis, the hair root thickens into the hair bulb, which surrounds the dermal papilla. In the dermal papilla, new hair material is formed through cell division and then pressed upward. Hair grows about 1 cm per month.

Hair Shaft

The part of hair that protrudes from the skin. It is comprised of three layers: The cortex is made up of tiny fibrils that give the hair its stability. The outer protective layer of the hair is called the cuticle. Occasionally, medulla cells containing air pockets are found inside of hair shaft, which form the medullary canal.

Herbal Extracts

These organic substances—derived from plants—are important components in toothpaste and mouthwash. They soothe gums and inhibit bacterial growth.

Highlights

To create highlights, only part of the hair is colored. Highlights can be blonde or another color. There are specialized highlighting products on the hair color market to either comb onto the hair, or pulled through a cap to which the color is then applied.

Honey

Honey was used for skin care as far back as ancient Egypt. Vitamins and enzymes have a moisturizing effect, particularly desirable in lip care and hair care products.

Hops

Hops extract contains relaxing and anti-inflammatory ingredients and are therefore used in hair care products. This essential oil—with astringent and antiseptic properties—has a soothing and tightening effect in hair tonics and is also used to strengthen fine hair in hair care products.

Hormones

The body’s own hormones are produced in the hormone glands to regulate certain biochemical processes in the body. Hormonal fluctuations can cause skin irritation as well as other symptoms. When in doubt, please consult your doctor.

Horsetail

The extract of this perennial strengthens skin’s resilience, promotes circulation, and is anti-inflammatory, astringent, and skin-firming because it supports the elasticity and firmness of connective tissue.

Humectants

Due to their ability to bind moisture, they are ideal for storing moisture in the skin.

Hyaluronic Acid

Together with collagen and elastin, hyaluronic acid is an important component of the skin’s connective tissue. It is able to retain large amounts of water and thus provides skin with intensive, lasting hydration. Hyaluronic acid softens fine lines and is often included in eye creams. It also supports the natural protective mechanisms of the skin.

Hydrogen Peroxide

Ingredient in hair color products. This chemical compound (H2O2) oxidizes the natural pigments of the hair and develops the pre-color products. The result: Hair is evenly lightened. It can then also receive a new color.

Hydrolipid Film

This biological barrier of the skin is also called the acid mantle. It is comprised of fat, water, and water-soluble substances. The hydrolipid film protects against the penetration of foreign substances and contains bacterial growth. The use of soap can impair its protective functions.

Intensive Cream

Particularly rich emulsions for the care of mature or problem skin that shows signs of premature aging. Existing fine lines and wrinkles are softened, and the formation of new lines are impeded.

Interdental Spaces

Tight, hard to reach spaces between individual teeth, which require particular attention to successfully clean (see: Dental Floss).

Jojoba Oil

This oil-like wax, cold pressed from the jojoba fruit, is gentle to skin and has moisture-regulating properties. It is often used in skin care products because it can be absorbed by the skin without leaving an oily residue. It supports the skin’s natural protective mechanisms and leaving it smooth and supple. It is used in hair care to nourish stressed hair for more suppleness and shine.

Keratin

Keratins are proteins with a high durability that makes up the skin, hair, and nails and keeps them strong. Keratin-like substances can regenerate the structure of damaged hair. Conditioners with keratin-like ingredients are especially recommended for hair that has been treated with oxidative color.

Lactic Acid

Lactic acid is a component of the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) of skin and thus contained in skin creams and toners to improve the appearance of dry, flaky skin.

Lanolin

Due to its ability to store moisture, wool grease serves as the basis for many creams and salves. It makes skin supple, adheres well, and is water-repellant. It is also used as a conditioner in hair care.

Lecithin

Lecithin is present in every human, animal, and plant cell. In the skin, it works as the intermediary between water and fat. As a component of every cell membrane, it plays an important role in cell maintenance and regeneration. The phosphoric acid in lecithin supports moisture in the skin. In combination with vitamin F, lecithin supports skin regeneration. Lecithin serves as an emulsifier in many cosmetic products and is included, for example, in soaps, shower gels, shampoos, daily moisturizers, and lipsticks.

Level 1

Hair color is divided into 3 levels according to its degree of permanence. Level 1 means that it is a rinseable colorant which lasts about 6 to 8 hair washes. The dyes attach to the hair and penetrate it to some degree. Level 1 colorations cannot lighten the hair, although some can cover a few grey hairs.

Level 2

Hair color is divided into 3 levels according to its degree of permanence. Level 2 are hair color that lasts up to 24 washes (demi-permanent). Here oxidative dyestuffs are mixed with hydrogen peroxide. With these products hair can be lightened a few shades. The first grey hairs are covered reliably.

Level 3

Hair color is divided into 3 levels according to its degree of permanence. Level 3 are permanent hair color. Micro-fine color pigments penetrate deeply into the hair structure and attach themselves to a fixed chain of color pigments. Through a chemical process called oxidation, a permanent change in color is achieved. Grey hair is completely covered. Color must be touched up at the roots accordingly in intervals.

Lightener

These function by removing the hair’s natural color pigments (melanin), thereby lightening the hair. The application of new color pigments is only of secondary importance.

Light Reflex Pigments

Many new products are meeting the consumer desire for radiant skin. Some high quality skin care products have light reflex pigments which reflect light on the skin. Skin develops a fine shimmer, and small imperfections are evened out leaving the complexion radiantly beautiful.

Lime Blossom

Due to its relaxing, soothing, and astringent properties, lime blossom extract is used in care products for sensitive skin as well as in anti-dandruff products for the care of sensitive scalp. Lime blossoms moisturize the skin and smoothes the skin.

Lipids/ Lipid Components

Collective designation for those fatty, organic, and natural ingredients for face and body care that protect the skin from environmental factors as well as from drying. They provide moisture and smooth the skin.

Liposome

Liposomes are tiny sacs in cosmetic skin care products. These microscopic pouches are made out of lecithin, and their structure resembles that of cell membranes. Due to their water-soluble composition and size, they are capable of transporting cosmetic ingredients into the deeper skin layers and releasing them there.

Liquid

i.e. Fluid. In dental care, this relates to those so-called 2-in-1 products, which are used as a regular toothpaste, but when thinned with water also serve as an effective mouthwash. Their more fluid consistency—when compared with conventional toothpastes—enhances the convenience of use, because they better adhere to the toothbrush and are more easily distributed throughout the mouth.

Long Hair

Due to its age (a hair grows that an average of roughly 1 cm per month), long hair—especially at the ends—is particularly stressed due to external influences, frequent washing, or chemical treatments. Hair feels dry or can look “frayed” and often has split ends. We recommend specially formulated products for long hair and hair ends (e.g., hair end fluids) that regenerate and strengthen the hair structure.

Lotion Mousse

After shaking briefly, ultra-light, body lotion mousse flows out of a can. It distributes gently and easily over the body and absorbs quickly without leaving an oily residue. Moisturizers and vitamins leave skin silky smooth.

Macadamia Nut Oil

The macadamia nut counts among the finest and richest nuts in the world. Its oil is rich in unsaturated fatty acids, e.g. it contains 25 % palmitoleic acid, which is similar to the body’s fatty acids. The oil’s similarity to natural acids makes it very gentle to skin. It offers intensive protection from external influences and conditions and protects the skin from drying out.

Marine Minerals

These are salts, for example, from the waters of the Atlantic. In skin care, they are used to stimulate cell metabolism. They stimulate mitochondria, which are responsible for producing energy for skin cells. As a result, skin looks revitalized and refreshed.

Mask

Masks are ideal for specialized facial and hair care. They have a viscous consistency, adhere well to face or hair and contain care ingredients for a particular hair or skin type. Masks can be applied to the face, neck, and décolleté. Note: Be sure to avoid the eye area and carefully read the instructions on the package.

Melanin

Melanin is a natural color pigment that the human body produces in so-called melanocytes. Pigments are responsible for skin, eye, and hair color. Color pigments in hair are produced in the lower part of the hair root and are then stored in the fibrous layer (i.e. cortex) of the hair. When the melanin production decreases in the hair root, hair becomes grey. Yellow to reddish brown pigments are degraded by UV radiation—the hair is lightened. Darker melanin (brown to black) can only be lightened through oxidation. From UV radiation, the melanin changes color and lays itself around the cell nucleus like a protective shield so that the genetic material there cannot be easily destroyed.

Melissa (Lemon Balm)

This oil is extracted through steam distillation of dried leaves. Its ingredients have antibacterial and calming effects. It is used in skin care for sensitive or problem skin as well as to treat hair loss due to diet or stress.

Menthol

The essential oil of peppermint consists mainly of menthol. Its cooling and relaxing effect is valued for the care of tired skin or after-sun products. For problem skin, acne, or dermatitis, its ingredients are antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, and tighten the pores. Hair tonic with menthol promotes circulation, strengthens the hair root, and prevents dandruff.

Microorganism

This is the designation for microscopic-sized organisms such as bacteria, viruses, and fungi. They are a part of healthy skin flora. If this is disturbed, however, by outside influences, they disproportionately multiply, which can cause skin irritation such as itching or dandruff.

Milk Complex

This complex moisturizes the skin and at the same time binds watery and oil-soluble components into a stable emulsion.

Milk Protein

This is one of the essential components of milk and consists of many amino acids that are linked together. Amino acids are essential for the body. In skin, milk protein creates moisture and a protective film on the skin.

Milk Teeth (Baby Teeth)

A baby or small child has a set of 10 milk teeth. Caries prevention is the greatest concern in their dental care since baby teeth have weaker enamel than permanent teeth. Children’s toothpaste with fluoride works best against caries because fluoride strengthens the enamel.

Mineral

E.g., calcium, magnesium, and zinc, which are essential to the human organism.

Mint

Balm mint extract is a skin clarifying substance from the balm mint plant that has refreshing and antibacterial properties. Breaks down impurities (pimples and blackheads) and prevents new ones from forming (see also Menthol).

Moisture Regulators

Ingredients in creams, lotions, or gels that support the natural moisture content the skin.

Mousse

French designation for foam. There are mousses in multiple areas of cosmetics, such as shaving foam, hair care products (conditioners and treatments), and, more recently, shower mousse, body lotion, and facial cleansing mousse. The advantage of mousse: dispensable at the touch of a button and easy to distribute.

Mouthwash

Product for oral hygiene that freshens breath. Today’s formulas also contain substances that disinfect the mouth and throat, e.g., control the growth of bacteria and germs, thus preventing caries and peridontosis, as well as bad breath.

Multi-Reflex Pigments

Contained in some hair color products, multi-reflex pigments supply the given shade with shimmering effects and shine.

Multivitamins

A combination of vitamins used as an ingredient in skin and hair care products for strengthening and regeneration. Also available as a dietary supplement in many forms (tablets, juice, capsules, etc.).

Natural Color (Renature) Cream

Natural color products restore greying hair step-by-step to its natural color. They contain no oxidation agents, but rather use oxygen in the air to create natural pigments, so that after regular use the hair regains its original color. This product should not be used light blonde, reddish blonde, red, or black hair.

Nettle

Substances in nettle extract have invigorating properties; they also stimulate circulation, firm skin and alleviate dandruff and oily hair.

Night Cream

Particularly rich cream that supports the overnight regeneration of skin suppling it with oils. The basis are W/O emulsions supplied with replenishing oils (e.g. evening primrose oil).

Normal Hair

Normal hair is healthy hair. It shines and is strong even at the ends. The right care in necessary to maintain this condition, because hair is constantly exposed to harmful external influences like sun, chlorine water, or blow-dryer heat.

Nutmeg

Nutmeg oil is used in cosmetics for its stimulating and antiseptic properties. It is also valued for its sweet, spicy-warm aroma.

Oak Moss

Due to its antibacterial properties, oak moss extract is used to inhibit comedogenic (blackhead-causing) bacteria in problem skin.

Octopirox

The active ingredient Octopirox inhibits the growth of micro organisms and is found in antidandruff products.

Oil-in-Water Emulsion (O/W Emulsion)

Consists of a water phase and oil phase. The oil phase (in the form of tiny droplets) is dispersed in a continuous water phase. It is distributed easily and quickly absorbed. Because of the water solution, the emulsion has a light, moisturizing effect. Milk is a typical example of a natural oil-in-water emulsion.

Oily Hair

Hair that quickly becomes oily is, strictly speaking, not a hair problem but a scalp problem caused by the sebaceous glands: Sebum fat is released from the sebaceous glands and forms normally a natural protective coating on the hair. Factors like stress, sun, pregnancy, or medication containing hormones can cause an overproduction of sebum; hair then becomes oily and stringy. Specially formulated shampoos alleviate this problem. If, however, a dandruff problem also exists, an anti-dandruff shampoo should be used.

Olive Oil

Olive oil is obtained by the cold-pressing of the olive fruit. Due to its softening and moisturizing properties, it is often used in cosmetics, most of all in skin care, as an oil component in soap production. It is also used in hair care products for dry, dull hair.

Oxidation

Chemical reaction when a substance is combined with oxygen.

Oxidative Hair Color

With permanent hair color, tiny dyestuffs penetrate deep into the hair and transform into color pigments through oxidation (chemical reaction with oxygen). These pigments are now so large that they cannot leave the hair—even during washing. The color is permanent. Each product consists of two components that are mixed before application.

Panthenol

See Provitamin B5.

Papilla

The dermal papilla is found at the lower end of the hair root. It contains the blood vessels and nerves and supplies nutrients to the hair root.

Peach Kernel Oil

This oil, extracted from the peach pit, is often used in skin and hair care due it its high concentration of vitamin C and unsaturated fatty acids (oleic and linoleic acids). It supports the natural replenishing of the skin and thus protects it from dryness.

Peeling

Peeling removes dead skin cells on the skin surface and therefore provides deep cleansing. Peelings in the form of exfoliating creams contain tiny beads (abrasives) that gently free the skin of traces of dirt, impurities, bacteria, dead skin cells and excess sebum. Skin becomes softer and looks refreshed.

Perfuming Agents

These concentrates give certain care products a particular scent. They must be deemed dermatologically safe and neither influence the shelf life nor effectiveness of the other ingredients.

Periodontitis (Gum Disease)

Gingivitis is an early form of gum disease. It is characterized by red, swollen, or bleeding gums and can be reversed with proper hygiene. The advanced stage is called periodontitis, or the inflammation of tissues supporting the teeth. This more severe form may remain unnoticed at first; swelling, redness, and bleeding of the gums as well as bad breath may only later appear. The gums begin slowly to recede. Eventually, the gums loosen themselves completely from teeth and recede even further. The disease at this stage also encroaches upon the jawbone, where it destroys tissue suspending the teeth and some of the jawbone. In extreme cases, the teeth loosen and fall out. The best prevention: proper hygiene and regular trips to the dentist.

Permed Hair

Although permed hair is formulated to be as gentle as possible to hair, it always means an assault on the natural hair structure. Chemical changes must be made to the interior structure of the hair for a permanent change in form. First the outer cuticle layer is opened; after the application keratin may not close completely—making hair dry out more easily and look dull. We recommend an intensive hair repair program with integrated restructuring care products.

Perspiration

This term refers to the process of sweating. Sweat forms in the sweat glands and fulfills important tasks within the body, e.g., the regulation of body temperature. There are apocrine and eccrine (sweat) glands, whose excretions differ in terms of appearance, composition, and function. Unpleasant body odor is created when bacteria decomposes the sweat of apocrine glands on the skin surface, which mainly occurs in the underarms.

pH Value

Scale unit of the acidity of fluids, which are represented on a scale of 0 (basic) to 14 (alkaline). A product with a pH value of 7 is neutral. If the value is under 7, the fluid is basic; if the value is over 7, it is acidic. The normal pH value of skin is 5.5 but can vary between 4.9 and 6.4 (due to differences between men and women and between body areas).

Pigment

Pigments are micro-fine, granular particles. The pigment that determines of skin, eyes, and hair is called melanin. They are produced in cells called melanocytes. Freckles are caused by excessive pigmentation, and reduced or nonexistent pigmentation causes hair to look grey.

Plaque

The sticky, yellow-grey coating on teeth consisting of bacteria, food remnants, bodily secretions, and cells. Plaque is the precursor to tartar and plays a direct role in the development of caries and gum disease. Thorough cleaning with a toothbrush and dental floss is required in order to prevent plaque from forming.

Present Hair Color

This is the color of your hair before coloring. This can refer to either your natural color or the result of a prior coloration. This is the starting point from which you select a new color shade.

Prophylaxis

Measures for the prevention of dental illnesses. These include first and foremost proper daily oral hygiene and dental products containing fluoride. Proper diet (low in sugar, high in fiber) also plays a role in maintaining good oral health. These measures should be accompanied by regular visits to the dentist. Only your dentist can professionally remove tartar as well as diagnose and treat early caries and gum disease.

Protein

Proteins are molecular compounds of more than 100 amino acids. They are components of all living cells, either as building blocks (like keratin and collagen, present in hair and nails), or they are active in cell metabolism as carriers of enzymes—and thus indispensable for all life processes. Proteins are used in moisturizing cosmetics as well as in hair care for strengthening the hair’s own keratin.

Provitamin B5

Provitamin B5 (also D-panthenol) is transformed into pantothenic acid through enzymes on the skin. Due to its soothing, anti-inflammatory, skin-firming, and moisture-binding properties, it is used in skin and lip care, in sunscreen and after sun products, as well as in hair care for the repair and protection of hair and hair roots.

RDA

Abbreviation for: radioactive dentine abrasion. A specific measurement of the abrasion caused by dental care products on dental enamel.

Red Tinge

Before the desired degree of a bleaching or lightening is reached, hair goes through a transitional red phase. If you undershoot the given application time, hair will stay a reddish yellow. If this occurs, it is recommended to repeat the entire coloration process from the beginning and adhere to the given application time.

Regeneration

This is the term for the renewal process of skin. Skin regenerates itself mainly at night through cell division. Effective products can support this phase additionally with active ingredients.

Remineralization

Aggressive acids arising from the metabolism of bacteria wash minerals out of the enamel, thereby weakening it. An effective toothpaste replenishes these minerals and makes the enamel less susceptible to external irritants and pathogens.

Replenishing Ingredients

Each time we use products to cleanse our skin, surfactants, alcohol, and other solvents remove oils from its surface. The natural acid mantle of the skin is washed away—causing dehydration of the epidermis. To avoid this, replenishing substances are often added to cleansing products.

Resorcin

Resorcin is a synthetically produced substance. In oxidative hair color, resorcin serves as a coupler, which binds with developer molecules to determine the exact color of the pigment. Resorcin can cause an allergic reaction. Products containing resorcin should not be used to color eyebrows or eyelashes and not come into contact with the eyes.

Reticular Layer

This lower layer of the dermis is comprised of strong, criss-crossing collagen fibers and elastic networks. They contain larger nerves and blood vessels, sweat glands, and hair follicles (see also Skin/Skin Structure).

Retinol

For a long time Retinol was used only by dermatologists, though now it has captured the consumer market. Retinol is a highly efficient, anti-wrinkle substance which in encapsulated form reaches the lower skin layers. Even small amounts of retinol can effectively stimulate cell regeneration: Dead cells are renewed, weak cells are strengthened, and collagen production is stimulated— effectively minimizing even deeper wrinkles.

Rinseable (Non-Permanent Color)

Non-permanent tints (level 1) are gentle to hair and last for about 6 to 8 hair washes. Color molecules attach themselves to the hair and only partly penetrate it.

Root treatment (Touch-Up Treatment)

This becomes necessary when a difference is visible between your roots and colored hair. For a touch-up treatment, the processing time of the color solution on the roots is longer than on the already colored hair.

Rosehip Oil

Rosehip oil has a high content of unsaturated essential fatty acids, carotenoids and flavonoids. It is also rich in vitamins and maintains the elasticity of skin. It offers protection against harmful environmental influences.

Rosemary

The essential oil of this labiate is produced by steam distillation and assists in many types of cosmetics. Rosemary is antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, astringent, and promotes circulation. It is used for tired, poorly circulated skin and acne, as well as in hair care to alleviate dandruff.

Sage

The cosmetic effect of the sage plant is used to narrow enlarged pores, decrease the oil content of impure or combination skin, and to prevent inflammation, thus creating an even complexion.

Salicylic Acid

This organic acid has an antibacterial effect and is used in the treatment of young, problem skin as well as in antidandruff products.

Saliva

Human saliva aids the body in the digestion of food. Food becomes softened and can more easily be broken down by chewing. Enzymes in saliva prepare for digestion in the stomach. The flow of saliva also supports in cleansing the mouth.

Scalp

The scalp is protected by its own acid mantle (Hydro Lipid Film). Oxidative hair color, however, can cause scalp irritation. It is therefore not recommended to wash your hair before coloring. Intense bleaching is not recommended for a sensitive or irritated scalp. For general care, invigorating and circulation-enhancing hair tonics should be used.

Scalp Circulation

Particularly in combination with a scalp massage, hair tonics stimulate the circulation of the scalp and thus nourishes the individual hair roots. It also works against dandruff and hair loss.

Scalp Itching

Dandruff or increased sebum secretion can lead to a dry or oily scalp and promote the growth of microorganisms that can cause itching. We recommend care products with antiseptic and astringent ingredients.

Scan Repair Complex

Hair conditioning and treatment products with Scan Repair Complex analyze the hair structure, and repair it only where it is damaged. Thus healthy areas are not overtreated.

Sea Sand

Micro-fine, purified sea sand from the Baltic Sea is used as a component of peelings for the gentle removal of dead skin cells. Skin is massaged and circulation is stimulated.

Seaweed

See Algae/ Algae Extract.

Sebaceous Gland

From the head down the number of sebaceous glands that are found in the hair follicle embedded in the dermis steadily decrease; the soles of the feet and insides of the hands have none. If sebum production is low, skin is dry, rough, and chapped. Healthy sebaceous glands in the scalp secrete about one gram of sebum a day. If the glands produce too much sebum or are clogged, pimples and blackheads result.

Shiny Hair

Healthy hair grows from a healthy scalp; shiny hair results when the protective cuticle layer is smooth and not rough or damaged. There are many external causes of damaged hair: mechanical (e.g., excessive blow dryer heat), chemical (e.g., frequent perming), or environmental (e.g., UV rays, salt or chlorine water, wind). Internal causes may include physical or psychological stress, poor diet, drugs (also nicotine and alcohol), illness, medication, or hormonal imbalances. The cell structure of the hair becomes damaged, hair loses its original strength and stability, and becomes it dull. The right care with protein-rich, replenishing, and moisturizing ingredients protects the hair and gives it shine.

Sebum

A fatty secretion of the sebaceous glands that keeps hair and skin supple.

Shower Gel/ Foam

Products for body cleansing in the shower—with refreshing, revitalizing effects. These products contain additives for the appropriate skin care and are pH neutral.

Shower Mousse

This innovative product is sprayed out of a can after shaking briefly. It distributes easily and contains moisturizing ingredients for softer skin, rich additive ingredients (e.g. marine minerals), can pleasing fragrances, which make for a special shower experience.

Silk Protein

Silk protein serves as an additive ingredient in hair care products to smooth the cuticle and thus give hair shine.

Skin Structure

Skin is primarily composed of three layers: the epidermis, cutis, and subcutis. The epidermis and cutis are comprised of multiple layers; the subcutis has only one. Skin regeneration takes place in the various layers of the epidermis. Collagen and elastic fibers form the connective tissue, which is responsible for the elasticity of the skin. The subcutis is comprised of fatty tissue and thus stores energy for the body by acting as a nutrient reserve and helps protect it from cold and injury.

Skin Test

Some hair color ingredients can cause allergic reactions in some people. For the sake of safety, it is recommended to do a skin test 48 hours before application. Dab a small amount of the hair color on the inside of the arm and wait about 45 minutes. Even people that do not tend to have allergic reactions should do a skin test before the first application. This is described in detail in the accompanying directions for use.

Skin Types

There are generally four main skin types: normal, oily, dry, and combination skin—each with its specific attributes and problems. Skin may also exhibit acute conditions (such as impure, moisture-deprived, sensitive, or problem skin) independent of its fundamental type, which may arise due to either altered habits or the natural aging process. To address your skin care needs, there are a multitude of products on the market that offer individualized, effective care.

Soap

There is a differentiation between solid and liquid soaps, which both cleanse skin and are frequently used to wash hands. Soap contains natural substances (surfactants, fatty acids) that reliably dissolve all types of dirt—but it also influences the pH value of the skin, shifting it into alkaline range.

Sodium Bicarbonate

Also known as baking soda, it neutralizes dangerous acids in the mouth and thus prevents caries and gum problems.

Soft Toner/ Non-Permanent Color

A soft toner is a rinseable, non-permanent colorant for expressive, intense, color. Application is easy and gentle to hair and lasts 4-6 hair washings (permanence level 1). Soft toners are not recommended for grey hair.

Soy

Extracted from the seeds of the soybean, soy protein improves the metabolism of skin cells and smoothes skin. Soy oil on the other hand is used in cosmetics as an oil component in skin care products; it smoothes and replenishes.

Split Ends

A hair is only alive in the hair root; it is oldest at the ends. Due to external factors or mechanical stress, long hair especially tends to develop frayed ends. Specialized hair products (e.g., hair end fluids) smooth and repair split ends and prevent new ones from forming.

St. John’s Wort Oil

This clear, reddish-brown extract is gained from the blossoms of the St. John’s wort has an anti-inflammatory and soothing effect. The oil used in cosmetics for highly sensitive skin.

Structural Damage (Hair)

Inadequate care, environmental influences, mechanical or chemical stress, such as blow-dryer heat, chlorine, or perming can cause deep structural damage in hair. Care products with protein-enriched, replenishing, and moisturizing ingredients provide help. Today’s treatment products analyze the hair structure and repair damaged areas without over-treating the healthy areas. The interior of the hair receives additional strength and resilience.

Subcutis

The subcutis is the lowest of the three skin layers. It has a single layer and contains the fatty tissue. The subcutis serves as an energy and nutrient reserve, as well as protecting the skin from cold and injury.

Sulfur

Due to its emollient, disinfecting, and sebum-reducing properties, sulfur is used in cosmetics to treat acne as well as in hair care for anti-dandruff products.

Sun Protection Factor

Products with a sun protection factor (SPF) are recommended as protection at any age for skin that is exposed to UV-radiation. They protect skin from harmful UV-radiation in daylight and offer effective protection from premature aging of the skin and sunburn.

Surface-Acting Agents

See: Surfactant.

Surfactant

Surfactants (tensides) are water-soluble organic compounds that greatly lower the surface tension of the water. They are used in the production of washing and cleansing products, as emulsifiers, dispersants, and foaming agents. Through their molecular structure combining hydrophilic (water-soluble) and lipophilic (fat-soluble) parts, they are able to surround dirt particles and then dissolve in water. Biodegradable surfactants are used in today’s products.

Syndets

These are cleansing products that originated in medicine. In comparison to soaps, these contain only synthetically produced cleansing substances, hence the name (SYNthetic DETergents). Syndets are pH neutral—in other words they do not influence the pH value of the skin (see pH Value).

Tartar

General term for plaque once it has hardened. This hard coating along the edge of the gums forms in combination with substances present in saliva. Tartar must promptly be removed by a dentist, because its rough surface can irritate the gums in which bacteria can produce. Tartar therefore promotes the onset and spread of periodontosis.

Tea Tree Oil

This essential oil is produced by steam distillation of the Australian tea tree is used due to its antimicrobial (killing of fungus and bacteria) and anti-inflammatory properties in varied cosmetics. It serves as a natural ingredient against blemish-causing bacteria and existing pimples, for acne and oily skin, to fight and prevent dandruff, and also against herpes, warts, and athlete’s foot.

Toluylendiamine

This is a developer in hair color. Developers are pre-color pigments in oxidative hair color. They combine under the influence of an oxidizing agent with so called “couplers” to create the desired color. Products containing toluylendiamine can cause allergic reactions, should not be used for coloring eyebrows or eyelashes or come into contact with the eyes.

Toothbrush

A tool for thoroughly cleaning teeth and massaging the gums. With the correct technique (see Tooth Brushing), the teeth can be cleansed of harmful plaque. Good toothbrushes have rounded bristle ends and are constructed so that all teeth can be brushed without difficulty. For hygienic and performance reasons, a toothbrush should be replaced at least every three months.

Tooth Brushing

An absolutely necessary cleaning element of the proper maintenance of teeth. Everyone should brush at least twice a day for at least three minutes. The right technique is decisive. With slightly vibratory, circular motions, plaque is removed and then and rinsed away toward the edge of the tooth and away from the gums. Do not forget the chewing surfaces and those on the interior of the teeth. The quality of the toothbrush and its regular replacement is also important.

Tooth Structure

A tooth can be divided into three areas: the crown (the visible part), the neck (at the gum line), and the root (hidden in the jaw bone). The outer protective coating of the crown is the white to yellowy enamel—the hardest material in the human body. The next layer is called the dentine. This bone-like substance of the tooth encircles the pulp. It is comprised primarily of nerves and blood vessels, that rise from the root into the jaw. The root in turn is surrounded by the cementum and is anchored in the jaw flexibly by connective fibers.

Urea

Nitrogen-containing urea is the most important by-product of protein metabolism, which occurs in the liver and is excreted in the urine. It is a humectant and relieves itching. Due to its exfoliating properties it is also used in anti-dandruff products.

UV-Radiation

Exposure to sunlight, which is composed of UVA and UVB rays, can lead to premature signs of aging of skin. Day creams possess UV filters that protect from the effects of the sun.

Vitamin

Collective designation for the essential organic substances that the human organism cannot produce on its own. Vitamins or their precursors provitamins must be obtained through diet. Inadequate vitamin intake can cause deficiency or disease. Vitamins A, B, and E are important for cosmetics and are used in many care products. They regenerate cells and protect against dryness, harmful outer influences, and premature aging.

Vitamin A

Vitamin A (also retinol) is usually absorbed through diet in the form of its provitamin (beta carotene) and converted into vitamin A after being in the human body. This fat-soluble vitamin is important for skin and mucous membranes, and improves eyesight and growth. In cosmetics, retinol is used as a highly effective anti-aging ingredient, which effectively stimulates cell regeneration in the epidermis as well as collagen production in the lower skin layer—effectively removing even deep wrinkles.

Vitamin C

Vitamin C (also: ascorbic acid) is an important element in the metabolism of connective tissue. In skin care it is an antioxidant which fights harmful free radicals that cause premature aging. With the help of vitamin C, new collagen is formed in the skin, the elasticity of the skin is improved, existing fine lines are visibly reduced, and new lines are prevented from forming.

Vitamin D

Vitamin D (also: calciferol) are the group of fat-soluble substances for regulating calcium and phosphorus levels. Calciferol is created from its corresponding provitamins after coming into contact with UV radiation.

Vitamin E

Vitamin E—this fat-soluble skin protective vitamin neutralizes free radicals that are created in skin due to sunlight and harmful environmental factors that cause the formation of wrinkles. Vitamin E also protects against moisture loss and harmful drying out of skin and also against the premature formation of fine lines.
In hair care products it regenerates cells and promotes hair growth; for dry hair it is moisture-regulating. It also reduces skin damage from UV-radiation.

Vitamin H

Water-soluble vitamin H (biotin) is essential part of the structure of skin, hair, and nails and demonstrably reduces fine lines and damage to the skin. Biotin is found mainly in liver, eggs, yeast, and nuts. Deficiencies lead to dry skin, inflammation, hair loss, and dry, brittle nails. Biotin is also an ingredient in hair care products.

Water-in-Oil Emulsion (W/O)

Has a dual-phase foundation, whereby the water phase is dispersed in the oil phase. A typical example of this emulsion type in foodstuffs is butter. This emulsion is very rich and is able to meet the oil and moisture needs of the skin. Skin is given lasting care and protected against moisture loss.

Wheat Bran

Is a byproduct of flour milling. It is rich in vitamins E and F and has a soothing effect on skin. When combined with water it cleanses skin and massages and refines the complexion.

Wheat Germ Oil

Extracted from the wheat germ seedling, this oil is comprised up to 85% of essential fatty acids (linoleic acid, oleic acid, linolenic acid), contains vitamin E and carotene, and is used in skin care for dry, mature skin as well as in hair care.

Wheat Protein

Wheat protein can regenerate damaged keratin in hair; hair becomes shiny and supple. It also has anti-inflammatory and moisturizing properties for the scalp.

Witch Hazel

Plant substance (Hamamelis virginiana) extracted from leaves, which is used in products for oily and combination skin. Witch hazel reduces sebum production and improves the complexion, because it normalizes (i.e. narrows) the enlarged pores in oily and combination skin.

Yellow Tinge

If after coloring you have a yellowy tinge to your hair, your bleached hair was probably either damaged before coloring or the product used was not suitable for your previous hair color. In this case, the yellow tinge can be neutralized with the help of a silvery-ash color variation (e.g., silver blonde or light ash blonde).

Yarrow

This concentrate from steam distillation has anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and astringent properties. It revitalizes, soothes, and relaxes the skin, which is why it is often used in treating impure and oily skin and scalp—in both skin care and anti-dandruff products.