FACIAL CARE
The face is a window to the soul
The human face has always been considered a window to the soul, because one can read here a person’s emotions, moods and frame of mind. The face can also reveal a lot about the age and life experience of a person, which are often visible through lines and wrinkles. The degree to which this occurs depends largely upon one’s skin care regime.
Compact and systematic care
The skin care industry offers a multitude of products that are tailored to individual needs. Generally, it is possible to distinguish between systematic and compact care products. Systematic care means that a brand carries a complete product line for a particular skin type and condition. Compact care, on the other hand, refers to individual products within a broader product line that address the needs of particular skin types.
Biological rhythm
The function and characteristics of skin are subject to a biological rhythm—day and night, summer and winter—which varies according to age.
Day and night
While during the day skin is busy defending itself against aggressive and disruptive environmental factors, at night it is able to recover. Cells divide eight times faster at night than during the day, and seventy percent of all cell division processes occur at night. Thus, it can appropriately be called the regeneration phase. During this phase, the pores open up, so that cells can absorb replenishing ingredients more intensively. This process can be supported with the help of nighttime-specific cosmetic products. Daytime-specific products, on the other hand, should work to protect the skin and aid its natural functions.
Summer and winter
In summer, skin is deprived of moisture due to increased sun exposure. In winter, skin usually produces less sebum and is therefore dryer. Over the course of one’s lifetime (from age 25 onwards), the capacity of skin to regenerate itself and retain moisture diminishes. Cell division and sebum production slows down. Moreover, skin loses some of its resilience against outer influences—and the aging process begins.
Environmental influences
Our faces are constantly exposed to countless environmental stresses. These include: cold wind, hard water, UV exposure, pollution, dry, overheated air and air conditioning.
Signs of aging
Visible signs of various stresses and strains are often skin irregularities, drying or irritation. The general appearance of wrinkles advances with age. Smoking, sun exposure, stress, lack of exercise or a poor diet can accelerate this process and lead to premature wrinkling.
The four levels of facial care
A specific, thorough and intensive skin care regime must:
- be geared towards one’s individual skin type and condition
- be gentle to skin
- take into account the biological rhythm of skin and contain optimal ingredients for each phase
- correct and renew the hydrolipid film—or acid mantle—of the skin
- assist or normalize, when necessary, the skin’s natural functions
- stall the aging of skin; that is, slow down the formation of wrinkles.
The four recommended steps for care are as follows:
- Cleansing
- Clarifying and refreshing
- Care and protection
- Structure and regeneration
The four levels of this system are dependent on one another, and corresponding products are meant to work together. Those who conscientiously apply these individual levels in the proper order and pay attention to product quality can be sure that they are providing themselves with optimal facial care.
Step 1: Cleanse thoroughly
Cleansing is absolutely essential
The face must be cleansed very gently. Dirt and dust, excess sebum, dead skin cells and traces of makeup should be completely removed. Cleansing products should neither affect the acid mantle nor the oil and moisture content of the skin too severely. There are particularly mild formulas available for every skin type. Specialized cleansing products can also provide additional skin care benefits.
Basic cleansing (daily care for morning and night)
• Cleansing milk:
Cleansing milk is applied to dry skin using a cotton makeup pad and then rinsed with water. In so doing, it removes dirt quickly, gently and completely. This type of cleanser may be used on all skin types.
• Emulsion Creams:
These somewhat creamy cleansing emulsions, with oil-replenishing and moisture-regulating substances, are ideal for dry and sensitive skin. They are gently massaged onto damp skin and then removed with makeup pads or warm water.
• Gel Cleansers:
Combination skin, as well as oily or blemished skin, should ideally be cleansed with a soap-free gel that is first foamed into a lather in the palm of your hand and then applied to damp skin. It is then rinsed thoroughly with warm water. This removes excess sebum (thereby preventing blackheads) and unclogs pores. Gel cleansers for young skin often contain ingredients that also serve an antibacterial function—to fight infection-causing germs and prevent blemishes and irregularities.
• Eye makeup remover
The eye area is very sensitive. Skin is up to eight times thinner here than on the rest of the face and lacks fat tissue. Therefore, it is particularly prone to developing fine lines. When cleansing this sensitive area, use only the most gentle lotions, gels or moistened pads to remove water resistant makeup. Rubbing, pressing or pulling should definitely be avoided.
Special cleansing (once or twice a week, or as needed)
• Cleansing masks
These remove excess sebum and impurities particularly thoroughly, because they remain on the skin for several minutes. Through their soothing ingredients, skin feels refreshed and its structure is improved.
• Peelings:
These are applied to the skin in circular motions. Fine, granular microbeads loosen dead skin cells from the skin’s surface, which are then removed with rinsing.
In many cases, peelings include natural materials like sea sand and almond meal that gently deep cleanse the skin. They soothe the skin and compensate for any oil or moisture loss.
Simple methods: convenience products
Products in this category are distinguished for being highly useful and extremely user-friendly. These include moist cosmetic wipes, cleansing pads and anti-blemish strips.
• Moist cosmetic cloths
These practical cloths are soaked in a moisturizing toner and are available for various skin types. They cleanse skin gently and deeply, while refreshing it at the same time. These cloths combine into one product the qualities of an effective skin toner, made for a particular skin type, with a soft cosmetic cloth. Its dual effect and easy application (when compared to a washcloth) makes it the perfect product both for home and on the go.
• Pore Strips
These self-adhesive strips remove blackheads gently and completely from the forehead, nose and chin areas. Pores of oily or combination skin in the “T-zone” are effectively cleansed. Simply attach strip to the affected area and remove after the prescribed time. The results are immediate: the pores are cleansed, blackheads are removed and skin looks clearer.
• Anti-blemish patches
These special patches are placed onto blemishes or other skin impurities and left on overnight. Their concentrated antibacterial ingredients dry out pimples during the night, and their soothing effect causes redness or swelling to fade away.
Step 2: Clarifying and refreshing
A fresh kick
• Toner
Toner removes traces of cleansing products, as well as calcium, from water and serves an antibacterial function. Skin becomes toned, revitalized and refreshed. Toners often contain plant or flower extracts which aid their overall effectiveness and emit pleasant scents as well (e.g., lime blossom and oak moss extract, chamomile or mint). The alcohol content of a toner is important. While an alcohol-free toner is recommended for dry and sensitive skin, an alcohol-based solution is good for oily and blemished skin—for the deep cleansing of pores. Some antibacterial toners are produced specially for young blemished skin. They are either applied to clean skin or selectively onto pimples or blackheads.
Step 3: Care and protection
Ideal care for every skin type
• Daily moisturizer
The job of these products is to protect the skin during the day from environment influences (weather, pollution, etc.) and from UV rays. They are in addition easily absorbed by the skin and evenly distributed, replenishing the skin with moisture. When choosing a daily moisturizer, be sure to consider the type and condition of your skin.
• Oily and combination skin
It is best to care for this skin type with light emulsions and fluids. Through these, skin can be fed intensive moisture without appearing too shiny. With the help of plant extracts like sage and witch hazel, as well as active ingredients that absorb oil, skin achieves a matte appearance. One’s complexion is improved, and pores are tightened
• Normal skin
Normal skin is optimally maintained using a cream that quickly draws in moisture, protecting skin and supporting its natural functions. Effective care ingredients like sweet almond oil (which has been used for centuries) preserve the ideal condition of this skin type. Modern ingredients, such as proteins produced from sweet almond, protect skin effectively from drying out and shield it from the environment as much as possible. Skin stays longer soft, supple and youthful.
• Dry skin
Dry skin requires mild moisturizing products that combine rich ingredients with intensive moisture. These ensure protection from extreme moisture loss and prevent skin from drying out. The oil and moisture content of skin is stabilized, and fine lines caused by dryness are smoothed. Lipids, which have a similar makeup as oils in the skin, reinforce the skin’s natural defenses against drying out. The skin can then better protect itself and becomes altogether smoother and more supple.
• Blemished skin
This skin type requires a light moisturizing day cream that does not leave behind an oily shine. Suitable products reduce irritation, soothe skin and anti-bacterial. Ideal ingredients include mint (skin clarifying) and chamomile (soothing). Additional anti-bacterial substances like oak moss extract prevent the spread of infection-causing germs. Pimples and impurities are thus prevented.
• Moisture-deprived skin
This type is particularly susceptible to irritation caused by the environment. Skin care products created for moisture-deprived skin work to restore balance. The “free radicals” are important to consider here. They are produced through certain chemical processes on the surface of the skin from light exposure and can damage cells, cell walls and collagen fibers. Skin consequently loses its elasticity. Vitamin E intercepts free radicals, binds and eliminates them. In addition, skin is supplied with vitamins (A and B5) and a specialized enzyme complex that protect against premature signs of aging. The skin’s moisture level is normalized once again.
• Sensitive Skin
Sensitive skin irritates easily. It also tends to redden and feel tense. This is often brought about by daily stress, excessive sun exposure, etc. Contact with certain substances can also negatively affect the well-being of the skin. The capacity of sensitive skin to function as a barrier is usually impaired, and harmful substances can therefore penetrate the skin more easily. Often, lipid production is impaired. When skin is lacking in oil and moisture, it begins to age prematurely. Sensitive skin requires a particularly mild moisturizer, made from protective, soothing and non-irritating ingredients. Special ingredients penetrate skin deeply, soothing and preparing it to receive replenishing substances, which then erase fine lines and prevent new ones from forming.
• Difficult, mature skin
As the biological aging process advances, skin loses its capacity to store its own moisture and lipids in adequate amounts. Skin becomes dryer over time, its oxygen content decreases and it loses its ability to regenerate cells. Products developed for this condition support cell regeneration which, with the help of active ingredients like soy protein, increases circulation and thereby the oxygen concentration of the skin. Cells can breathe more easily and therefore become more productive. Premature aging is stalled, and visible lines or wrinkles are softened. The overall structure of the skin is improved, and skin ultimately appears smoother.
Step 4: Construction and regeneration
Night recovery
• Night recovery cream
As mentioned above, cell division occurs at night. While sleeping, the body’s normal functions run on “auto pilot,” when skin can concentrate itself fully upon the formation of new cells. Night (recovery) creams aid externally in this renewal process and correct any oil and moisture depletion that may have occurred during the day. Dry, difficult or mature skin profits especially from the regular use of a night cream. Lines from dryness are smoothed, and new ones are prevented from forming.
Moreover, specialized ingredients increase the elasticity of skin, leaving it softer, smoother and more supple. Mature, difficult skin is revitalized—i.e., its structure is firmed. In addition to these tasks, a night cream should also have a calming and soothing effect. These concentrated, enriching formulas ensure that skin looks fresh and rested in the morning.
Skin care products for special circumstances
A whole range of products acts as a complement to these four basic steps, by offering easy solutions to particular problems.
• Antibacterial cover ups
This category includes cover up sticks, tinted makeup and powder, which are applied either directly to the blemished area or evenly distributed over the face, thereby disguising pimples and blackheads. At the same time, natural ingredients like chamomile or mint extract refresh and calm problem skin. An even complexion is maintained in the affected areas, without clogging pores. New impurities are also prevented from forming.
• Intensive creams
These particularly rich emulsions offer specialized, sustained care for demanding skin that is susceptible to wrinkling. Skin becomes tightened and structure firmed. It appears smoother, more rejuvenated and relaxed.
• Concentrate or serum
These products contain ingredients in concentrated form and are for problem zones—ither as a supplement to one’s daily skin care routine or as a treatment to be used for a shorter period. They tackle specific problems and reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
• Eye creams
These creams supply necessary moisture and nourishment to the extremely sensitive eye area and smooth fine lines that can quickly form there. Eye creams contain particularly mild oils that do not “creep” into eyes and irritate the mucous membrane.
• Anti-wrinkle eye pads
This product has already become widely popular. In contrast to conventional creams, which are absorbed by the skin shortly after their application, pads adhere gently to the skin and transfer their targeted ingredients throughout the entire time that they remain on the skin (usually about 20 minutes). The skin receives a maximum concentration of replenishing ingredients, and the results are immediate. Skin appears fresh and smooth.
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